Two more hunters

Steel: D2, forged and hollow ground.

Hardness: 58-59 RC

Blade length: 3-3/4″

Total length: 8″ or so

Blade thickness: 5/32″ – 3/16″

Stainless guards, pins, and thong hole tubes.

Handle material: natural canvas micarta on one, black canvas micarta on the other.

Quite possibly the nicest hunters I’ve done in this style, in my opinion.

 

These are both for sale, btw.  If anyone wants one, I can share the prices.

 

Phillip

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New knife

Hello dear reader(s).  😀  I just finished up a hunting knife, here are a description and some pics.  I’ll probably have a couple more done tomorrow.   All three are available for sale.

Steel: D2, forged and hollow ground. Machine satin finish.

Hardness: 58-59 RC

Blade length: 3-3/4″

Total length: 8″

Blade thickness: 5/32″ or so

Handle material: black canvas micarta

Tapered tang, of course.

Thanks for looking!

New uke

Just strung this one up yesterday. It’s a baritone uke, with the body shape based on a jumbo guitar.

The scale length is 19.5″.

Nut width is 1.5″

The back and sides are osage orange.

Top is cedar, with spruce bracing. There are 5 fan braces, and no bridge patch.

Bridge, rosette, and headstock veneer are osage.

Binding is curly hickory. Tough stuff.  Which is good since I dropped this on the concrete floor while spraying it.  😀

I for strings I used the A, D, G, and B strings from a classical set, and tuned them DGBE. Seems to work fine.

I used a Virzi plate, which broke off in the fall, but here you can see the bracing, and also that I used a C-block and bolt-on neck.

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Some finished pics:

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The last soundboard pics

Now the X brace has to be carved.  I start by scalloping the lower ends:

The upper arms of the X are not scalloped, but have a gentle arch, like so:

Then the  cross section is carved round:

And the lower arms are carved into a more or less triangular shape:

Now the bridge patch is made and installed.  It is made out of flat sawn osage orange, and it is sanded to match the radius of the top.

The intersection of the X needs to be capped also.  Sometimes I’ve used wood, but I’m told that cloth is better, so I take two pieces of cotton and soak them with wood glue:

I also added the “popsicle” braces in the upper bout.

The braces ends have to be trimmed to length, and the linings have to be routed out to accept them:

The the top is glued on:

More soundboard bracing

Here’s the tone bars rough carved.  I say rough carved because I may have to remove more material when I “voice” the top.  More on that later.

 

The cross strut carved.  I have to sand it smooth yet:

 

Here’s the rosette, which, of course, goes on before everything else:

 

Now I have to make sure that the X brace will fit between all the other braces snugly, as well as cut the notch at the intersection:

 

 

 

Then the braces are arched like the others, and glued on: